myagriculture

 Potato Growing Information 

 

POTATO GROWING INFORMATION © Frances Michaels
BOTANICAL NAME:Solanum tuberosum
COMMON NAMES: Spuds; taters; patata (Spanish); patat (Italian); pomme de terre (French); aardappel (Dutch); ziemniaki (Polish); alu (Hindi, Nepali, Bengali); kentang (Malay, Indonesian)
FAMILY: Solanaceae, the tomato family

PLANT DESCRIPTION
Potatoes like a fertile, deeply dug, moist, acidic soil with a pH of less than 6. They do not grow well in heavy clay or a limed soil, which promotes potato scab. To avoid this, always rotate your potato patch each year. Many older varieties of potatoes have lost favour commercially because of either deep eyes or an irregular shape but may have many advantages to the home grower in hardiness, disease resistance and prolific production.

USES
Food: potatoes are a staple, many heritage potatoes have a superb flavour whether used as an 'old' potato and baked or used as a 'new' potato and steamed or mashed.

PLANTING DETAILS
Recommended planting time: Potatoes can be grown in many months of the year, depending on whether the garden receives frost, as potatoes are frost-tender. Potatoes need 60-90 days frost-free to be successfully harvested; potatoes harvested early as ‘new’ potatoes do not store well. In northern NSW and QLD one of the best planting times is March-April, as the soil is warm, growth is rapid and there are generally less pests. For frosty areas, potatoes can be planted in early spring, shortly before the last expected frost. Planting can continue into summer although the risk of pest and disease damage increases as the weather becomes hotter, particularly in humid areas. Green Harvest offers certified seed potatoes in March-April and July-August.
Planting techniques: there are many different ways to plant. These include: containers, tyres, no-dig, deep mulch and traditional hilling. All these methods have been proven successful and potatoes are an easy crop to grow. The method you choose should suit your garden area and style. For details on these techniques search the web or look in any vegetable gardening book.
Planting depth: plant the seed potatoes 13 cm deep and then cover with a mulch 25-30 cm deep. Cutting into smaller pieces can increase the risk of rot in humid areas. If you do cut into smaller pieces, leave plenty of flesh with each eye and allow the cuts to dry for 24 hours before planting. Cutting into too small a piece can dramatically reduce yield.
Plant spacing: space the tubers 30-35 cm apart.

HARVEST
Potatoes are ready for harvesting when the majority of the tops have withered; this can be from 12 to 20 weeks after planting, depending on the variety. Early potatoes may be dug for table use at any time but for storage the potatoes should be fully mature. After they are dug, dry as quickly as possible, and then store immediately in a cool, dark, dry place. Exposure to light will turn the potatoes green; green potatoes are poisonous and should not be eaten. It is usually possible to save some of the harvest from a crop of certified seed potatoes for replanting. Doing this more than once can dramatically increase the risk of disease. Potato diseases can take years to eradicate from a garden.

Tomato Growing and Harvest Information

Temperature Germination60-85 F For Growth70-75 FSoil and WaterFertilizerHeavy feeder. Fertilizer 1 week before planting. Avoid high N and K at blossom time. Too much leaf growth may indicate too much N or too much waterSide-dressingEvery 2-3 weeks apply light supplements of weak fish emulsion or compost tea. When blossoming, side-dress with a calcium source to prevent blossom end rot.pH5.5-6.5WateraverageMeasurementsPlanting Depth1-2"Root depth8"-6'Heightdeterminate 3-4' indeterminate 7-15'Width24-36"Space between plantsIn beds18"In rows24-36"Space between rows3-6'Average plants per person 2-5HarvestPick when fruit is evenly red but still firm. If warmer than 90F, harvest the fruit either early or late in the day.First Seed Starting Date28-56 (~6 weeks) days before last frost dateLast Seed Starting Date132-202 before first frost dateCompanionsCompanionsBrassicas, carrot, celery, chive, cucumber, marigold, melon, nasturtium, onion, pea, pepperIncompatiblesCorn, dill, fennel, kohlrabi, potato, walnut

Practically anywhere. The tomato is a warm-weather vegetable, it is very tender to frost and light freezes. The newer dwarf cherry tomatoes are especially suited to growing in tubs and clay pots. Never plant near walnut family trees. The walnut trees excrete an acid that inhibits growth of nearby plants. Plant basil nearby to repel flies and mosquitoes, and improve flavor and growth.

Bee balm, chives, and mint will also improve health and flavor. Corn and tomatoes are attacked by the same worm, and should not be planted next to each other because of this. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes away also, as they both can get early and late blight. Also keep cabbage and cauliflower away from your tomato plants.

Recommended Varieties of Tomatoes

There are two basic categories of tomato plants: The determinate, which are genetically controlled and whose terminal buds set fruit and stop the plant from growing (these "bush types" are usually early bearing and do not need staking); and the indeterminate, which are the later-maturing varieties that are taller and usually need some staking.

Because tomatoes have become susceptible to many soil-borne diseases, the modern disease resistant varieties should be selected whenever possible to avoid crop disappointment. As with any soil-borne plant diseases, rotation of planting site is also important. (V = verticillium resistant; F = fusarium resistant, N = nematode resistant).

Types of Tomatoes
The recommended early tomatoes include:

• Springset - a determinate variety that takes 67 days to mature from the time seedlings are set out and is resistant to verticillium wilt and fusarium wilt (VF).
• Spring Giant - a determinate variety, 65 days, VF.
• Campbell 1327 - a semi-determinate (grows larger than determinate but does not need staking), 69 days, VF.

Main season plants generally produce larger fruits than do early tomato plants. Brandywine and beefsteak are generically among the most popular varieties. Popular varieties, all indeterminate, include (V = verticillium resistant; F = fusarium resistant, N = nematode resistant):

• Beefeater -75 days, VFN
• Better Boy - 70 days, VFN.
• Burpee's VF Hybrid - 72 days, VF.

Soil for Growing Tomatoes

Average garden soil will support a rewarding tomato harvest, but better results are assured if the soil is well prepared with rotted manures, compost, and high-potash fertilizers. Tomatoes are heavy feeders. Plan on providing them fertile, organically enriched soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5 to ensure you harvest tomatoes with the best flavor. Fertilizer formulas such as 5-10-10 are good. As an alternative Bone meal or ground rock phosphate are also good soil additions for tomatoes. One basic cause of blossom-end rot is calcium deficiency. Where this disorder has been prevalent, lime the tomato soil at the rate of 5 pounds per 100 square feet. Ground up egg shells are also good soil supplements to combat this problem.

If possible, dig up your tomato plot in the fall and work it several inches deep, incorporating a 2 inch layer of compost of organic matter into the soil. In the spring rake in a 5-10-10 fertilizer (about 1 pound for 25 feet of row.)

Planting Tomatoes

When -

Tomatoes should not be planted outdoors until day and night temperatures are about 55 degrees. Low temperatures (below 55 degrees) prevent fruit set. Soil temperatures should be at least 55-60F to transplant. Otherwise plants may turn yellow, become stunted and slow to bear. Seed should be started indoors 6-8 weeks before plants are set out, or use transplants, which are widely available. The ideal plant size is 6-10 inches tall.

How -

To start tomatoes indoors, sow seeds at least 1/2 inch apart, and 1/2 deep in flats or pots about 8 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Seedlings will be spindly with less than 12-14 hours of light per day, try to keep them in a warm sunny location. When seedlings have 4 leaves, transfer to a deeper pot (3-4") and again when 8-10 inches tall. Each time, place the uppermost leaves just above the soil line and remove all lower leaves. Transplant into the garden when the stem above the soil has reached 8-10 inches tall. Be sure to harden them off before transplanting them outdoors. Allow up to 10 days for the tomato plants to harden off to the outside temperature fluctuations.

Set your seedlings out when the temperatures are fairly certain to be above 55 F throughout the night. Seedlings should be spaced about 2 feet apart for early tomatoes and 3 feet apart for main-season types. Set tomato plants deeply, up to the first set of leaves; roots will form along the stem under ground and strengthen the support for the plant. A lanky seedling can be planted on its side, to the first leaves. It will right itself in a day or so. Use a starter solution (half-rate water-soluble fertilizer) when setting out tomatoes to give them a good, quick start. If you do not want to start your own tomato plants, seedlings are available at garden centers or home repair shops. Listen for cold weather warnings; if late frost seems imminent, cover the plants at night with newspaper tents.

How Tomato Plants Grow

The tomato is a vigorously growing plant with attractive foliage resembling the potato, its cousin. The plants have a decided odor caused by gland hairs on the stems and leaves, which give off a strong-scented oil and stain when broken. The fruit is borne on spurs, which develop directly from the stem.

Support structure
Indeterminate tomato plants will need some additional support. Even the determinate varieties can benefit from some of support structure. The indeterminate types must be tied to their stakes. They have no climbing tendrils so tie them up with soft twine, old nylon stockings or rags. Make a figure 8 with the tie, looping it around the stake and the plant and tie loosely, or use a slip knot on the stake and use the free ends to tie the plant. There are a variety of support structures available for tomatoes. Probably the most common is the use of a cage in one form or another. It could be made of anything really, use your imagination. Note: If you plan to use a trellis or stakes, set them into the ground before planting.

• Cage - To make wire cages, cut 6 inch mesh concrete reinforcing wire, which is 5 feet wide, into lengths about 5 1/2 feet each. Bend each length into a cylinder and fasten securely with wire. Cut off the bottom rung, set a cage over each individual tomato plant, and push the cage into the ground. The plant will grow up through the cage and the fruits will be easy to pick.
• Pole wire - For a row of several plants, 2 sturdy poles can be placed at the ends of the row and a strong, heavy wire attached to the top of the poles. Heavy twine is then tied to the wire above each plant, and pulled down and loosely tied to it. As the stem grows, wind the tomato plant around the twine for support.
• Pole - insert a pole or tall stake that extends about 6' above the surface of the soil next to each plant. As the tomato plant grows simply tie it loosely to the pole every 6" or so using a soft twine , cloth, or similar. You could prune any branches that do not conform to the pole.
• Non staking - Determine plants (see below) can be allowed to sprawl on black plastic or thick straw mulch. Set plants 4 feet apart in each direction.

Cultivating Tomatoes

Some sources suggest that indeterminate and larger semi determinate varieties should be pruned of all suckers (tiny leaves and stems in the crotches of other stems) because they may steal nourishment from the fruits. However, it has been demonstrated that this will limit photosynthetic production, and therefore limit harvest. Leaving these suckers grow should produce more tomatoes as well as an out of control tomato vine

Feed with a starter solution when the first plants are set out and again after the first flowers form. Continue to supplement with a weak fish emulsion or compost tea every 2-3 weeks. If you do not enrich the soil before planting, feed the tomatoes once a month with about 1/3 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer scattered in a 2 foot wide band around each plant. Tomato plants need at least an inch of water per week; so water them well, especially during dry spells. If the plants are well mulched, weeds should not be a problem. Try using a plastic mulch in either a red or black color. The mulch will help prevent weeds and keep soil borne pests from splashing up on the plants, in addition to helping control moisture. A generously moist growing season followed by a severe drought period, will often initiate blossom-end rot, which appears first as a water-soaked mark that develops to a flat, dark leathery spot. It can be discouraged with mulching and consistent water levels. Unlike most crops, you may solarize the soil as you grow tomatoes because they're very heat tolerant. Solarizing helps control disease, particularly verticillium wilt. Wet the soil and cover with clear plastic for the entire season for best results. Hand pollinate in greenhouses.

To keep indeterminate plants from making too much leafy growth, prune them to a single main stem by breaking off side shoots as soon as they appear. You will notice these side "suckers" growing between the crotch formed between the main stem and the leaf stem. Cut them out while they are small. The terminal shoot is pruned off when the plants reach the top of the 5-6 foot stake to stop their growth. These plants are also pruned of suckers, the side shoots that grow between the main stem and the leaf axils to moderate their vegetative growth. Most gardeners prefer to prune their tomato plants to one or two main stems.

Storage RequirementsWash and dry before storing. Pack no more than 2 deepFreshTemperatureHumidityStorage Liferipe: 45-50F90-95%4-7 daysgreen: 55-70 F90-95%1-3 weeksPreservedMethodTasteShelf LifeCannedexcellent12+ monthsFrozengood8 monthsDriedfair12+ months

Harvesting Tomatoes

60 days (early varieties)
70-80 days (main season)
Pick the fruit when it is red ripe, and check the plants every few days when the harvest starts coming. Store excess tomatoes in the refrigerator, but the flavor is best at room temperature. Tomato flavor starts to decline at temperatures below 55 degrees. When frost threatens, pick the remaining green tomatoes, wrap in newspaper, and keep in a moderately dark, warm place. They will ripen gradually well past the harvest season. Given warm weather and abundant rainfall, tomatoes ripen in 60-85 days from the time seedlings are set out. When the fruits begin to turn red, check the plants every day and pick those that are fully red and firm, but not hard. Overripe tomatoes will fall off the plant and rot quickly. To store an abundance of tomatoes at the end of the year, you can roast them, and store in a little olive oil in the refrigerator.

A very light frost will usually kill a few leaves, but the plant itself will continue to grow and produce. However, anything more severe than a touch of frost is likely to kill the entire plant. If frost is coming you can protect each plant by draping it in plastic sheeting or old bed sheets, or you can pull the plant up by its roots and hang in the basement until the fruit ripens. Neither method is guaranteed to work, and in cool areas an early frost almost always means the end of harvesting tomatoes.

To save seeds from open-pollinated varieties, allow perfect fruits to ripen until they become soft. Cut them in half and squeeze the gel and seeds into a jar. Cover with 3 inches of water and shake well. Allow the mixture to sit at room temperature for 24 hours before pouring out the liquid. Discard the floating seeds, and rinse the larger seeds on the bottom in a strainer and then dry them at room temperature for approximately 2 weeks. If handled and stored properly in a cool dark place, tomato seeds can last up to 6 years.

Tomato Pests

• White fly - Try to be alert to buying clean transplant stock. Vacuuming and high pressure hosing early in the morning can help control populations. Floating row covers can offer a preventive measure. They make a yellow sticky trap for white flies, they are attracted to the color yellow. To minimize their migration to your garden, do not wear yellow clothing while tending your garden.
• Tomato hornworm - large, green caterpillars with white stripes are the larvae of a large moth. Handpick. Planting borage among your tomato plants will keep the hornworms away.

Tomato Diseases

- Wilts, blights - Select a disease resistant variety; rotate tomato soil.

Early blight develops in early summer and causes leaves near the ground to develop dry, brown patches surrounded by concentric black rings. The best intervention is to prune off all affected leaves as soon as the problem is noticed. Pruning leaves to 18 inches from the ground will also reduce outbreaks.

Late blight may strike following a prolonged period of heavy cool rain. Affected leaves develop light brown, water-soaked patches, and entire plants can wilt within a few days. Provide excellent light penetration and air circulation to keep plants dry, reducing the risk of late blight.

- Blossom-end rot - Add calcium to the soil; keep plants watered and mulched.

Hard black or brown patches on the blossom ends of ripening tomatoes indicate a physiological disorder called blossom end rot, which is most common in large fruited varieties. Prevent this problem by growing tomatoes in fertile soil generously enriched with compost and mulch heavily to keep soil moisture levels constant.

Question and Answer

Q: What exactly are Heirloom plants?

A: Heirloom plants are species that have been grown organically, or true to type from seed. Before the industrialization of agriculture, this was the main way to grow plants. This term would however, rule out any hybrids. As near as gardeners can tell, 1951 is considered to be the latest year a plant could have originated and still be called an heirloom, since that year marked the introduction of the first hybrid varieties of vegetables.

Watermelon Growing and Harvest Information

Temperature Germination75-95 F For Growth65-75 FSoil and WaterFertilizerHeavy feeder. Before planting, work in compost or rotted manureSide-dressingApply balanced fertilizer or compost when vines are 12-18" long and again when fruits formpH6.0-6.5WateraverageMeasurementsPlanting Depth1/2"Root depthshallow in general , some up to 4'Height24"Widthup to 30-40 square feetSpace between plantsIn beds2'In rows4-8'Space between rows5-7'Average plants per person 2-6HarvestDetermining when a watermelon is ripe is more of an art than a science. Look for dark appearance overall and a golden yellow spot where the rind was resting on the ground for the most reliable indication of ripeness.First Seed Starting Date18 days before last frost dateLast Seed Starting Date112-151 before first frost dateCompanionsCompanionspumpkins, radish, squashIncompatiblesNone

Watermelons are a summertime treat enjoyed by young and old alike. There is nothing quite as refreshing as a cool slice of watermelon in the hot summer days of July and August. In addition to tasting great, watermelons are a leading source of lycopene (commonly found in tomatoes), in addition to being a very good source of vitamin A and C.

Where to Grow Watermelons

Because watermelons require a long, warm growing season, their best production in the United States occurs in the South and Southwest regions, where there is ample growing time and warm weather. Home gardeners in cooler regions can usually do fairly well with watermelons if they start seed indoors a month or more ahead of planting outdoors, but the vines need consistently warm days and nights to thrive. Watermelons need at least 80-100 consecutive days of very warm summer temperatures, at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Watermelons also prefer warm nights, above 70 degrees Fahrenheit is preferred. Watermelons are a warm-season crop, very tender to frost and light freezes. Plan an average of 2-6 plants per person. Watermelons generally take up enormous space, and should not be considered for the small vegetable garden. There are compact varieties that produce tasty and prolific fruits.

Recommended Varieties of Watermelons

The newer refrigerator-size small hybrid watermelons are more satisfactory for the average home garden, especially in the Northeast, where the growing season is shorter. Sugar Baby; New Hampshire Midget; and Lollipop.

Soil for Watermelon Growing

A sandy, light loam deeply enriched with manure and compost is ideal. The soil should be slightly acidic, pH 6. Since the vines are generally planted in hills, better yields can be realized by working in a spade full of well-rotted manure and fertilizer such as bone meal into each hill before planting. A well finished compost would also be a good substitute. In the past we have layered both green and brown garden wastes into a small mound, and covered that with dirt to make a miniature compost mound. After one year, this mound makes an ideal place to plant your watermelons. As a side note: melon rinds are excellent compost material, and would make a good base for such a mound.

Planting Watermelons

Germination in 7-10 days.

When -

To get a head start on the long growing season, start plants indoors 4 to 5 weeks before outdoor planting time. The soil must be warm and the weather settled with warm days and nights, as the plants are sensitive to cooler weather. If nights are cool, use hot caps to protect the plants. Melons can be sown directly outside, but some gardeners report better germination with presprouted seeds.

Note on Seedless Watermelons:

Seedless watermelon seeds are notoriously difficult to germinate, which is the primary reason for their high cost. Direct seeding of seedless watermelon seeds will suffer a very low germination rate, they will almost certainly need to be transplanted. A soil thermometer is critical, and likely a thermostatically controlled heating mat necessary to maintain the soil temperature at the required 85 to 95 degrees F; seeds will germinate quicker at the higher temperature range. The most common reason for failure is too much water in the soil. Water should not be able to be squeezed out of a hand full of soil (too much water), and it should not fall apart in your hands (too little water). Rather, the soil should retain its shape in your hand after squeezing if the proper amount of moisture is present. This is critical for the first 48 hours. Once germinated, temperatures should be returned to those representative of their growing environment. Expect seedlings to be less vigorous than standard seeded varieties, and slightly more susceptible to disease. Seedless watermelons will also require cross germination with a seeded watermelon variety in order to produce seedless watermelon fruit. A couple of germination seeds are often included in seedless watermelon packets. Any seeded variety can be used, the ones included are typically just for convenience.

How -

If you start melons indoors, use individual cells or peat pots, not flats, as the roots are too succulent to divide. When you direct sow, plant 2-3 seeds in a hill and then thin the appropriate spacing, depending on whether you train them on a trellis or let them spread on the ground. For direct sowing and transplants, cover seedlings with hot caps to protect from frost, speed growth, and keep out pests. The vines do best if planted in hills. Rows and hills should be set 5 to 6 feet apart each way, with 2 or 3 plants per hill. Thin to the 2 strongest plants in a week.

How Watermelons Grow

Watermelons grow extensively broad, ground hugging vines with soft, attractive foliage. The flowers appear quite suddenly, and it is interesting to watch the tiny melons start to develop after the flower petals drop. Watermelons have separate male and female flowers, and are not wind pollinated. They typically rely on insects for pollination (most likely bees), and will need your help if insect pollinators are insufficient.

Cultivating Watermelons

To encourage side shoots, when seedlings have 3 leaves, pinch off the growing end. When new side shoots have 3 leaves, pinch off the central growing area again. When fruits begin to form, pinch back the vine to two leaves beyond the fruit. Make sure fruits on a trellis are supported by netting or pantyhose, and fruits on the ground vines are elevated by empty pots to prevent disease and encourage ripening.

The vines are heavy feeders, and also need adequate moisture as they start to develop. Troughs near the plants can be flooded for effective watering. For fertilizer, give each hill about 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer, liquid manure or fish emulsion 3 weeks after planting, and again (if you can find the original hill) after flowers appear. Keep the hills well-watered up to the time fruit starts to fill out. Since weeding and cultivating are such problems with sprawling vine crops, black plastic or thick mulch proves an excellent aid to keeping weeds out, soil moisture in, and melons off the ground as they develop. The plastic mulch should be placed on the ground and anchored before planting, then central holes cut for the hills, with a few extra slits to let rain and hose water filter through.  Plain cardboard and newspaper covered appropriately also work well in a smaller garden setting.

Storage RequirementsStore fruits in a cool areaFreshTemperatureHumidityStorage Life35-55 F80-90%1 monthPreservedMethodTasteShelf Lifefrozengood3 months

Harvesting Watermelons

Knowing when to harvest watermelons is the most difficult part of growing them. They should be harvested at the peak of freshness for best results. Waiting too long gives you nothing but a mealy mess. Not waiting long enough means you may have to throw an inedible treasure out to the chickens.

There are several methods to identify a ripe watermelon, most of which are not entirely accurate at best. Some say you should tap them and listen to the sound they make, some say to look at the small tail to determine it's ripeness. The fact is, these are not reliable indicators for all watermelon varieties. The most reliable indicator of ripeness is the color. Ripe watermelons will have darker stripes and the spot the rind rests on will turn from white to golden yellow. Different varieties will darken to different degrees, but this will be your best indicator. If all else fails, plant a variety like Sugar Baby. Its green stripes darken to almost black when it is ripe, which makes the puzzle a little easier.

Watermelon Pests

• Striped cucumber beetle (East Coast) - or - Spotted cucumber beetle (West Coast): This is essentially the same pest, which changes its coat depending on which coast it chooses. Adults overwinter on garden debris, so good fall cleanup is the first step in control. Yellow sticky traps can also be used for cucumber beetles, but be aware they will also trap beneficial insects. In large plantings, perimeter trap crops of "Blue Hubbard" winter squash can be effective control strategy, as this is one of their favorite plants. Nearby plantings of barrage may also suppress cucumber beetle populations.
• Squash bug -Handpick adults and leaves bearing eggs. If boards are placed between rows in the evening, these insects will hide under them and can be destroyed in the early morning by uncovering and killing them.
• Vine borers - These pests are usually not seen until the damage is done. Good fall cleanup  

  
  

  
  

  Onion Growing and Harvest Information

  Temperature Germination50-85F For Growth55-75 FSoil and WaterFertilizerLight feeder, use compostpH6.0-7.5WateraverageMeasurementsPlanting depth - seed1/2" - set1"Root depth18" - 3'Height15-36"Width6-18"Space between plantsscallions1"Bulbs3"Average plants per person40HarvestWait until the tops fall over; pushing them can shorten shelf life. When bulbs pull out very easily, rest them on the ground to dry and cure. Treat gently as they bruise easily. Turn once or twice in the next few days; cover if it rains. When completely brown, they're ready for further curing. For regular onions, clip the tops 1" from the bulb. Do not clip tops of multipliers or separate bulbs. Spread onions no more than 3" deep on wire screens in a shady, warm, well-ventilated area. Cure for up to 2 months before storing for the winter. The flavor and quality of multipliers keeps improving. After 2 months, check for spoilage and remove bad or marginal onions. Separate multiplier bulbs by cleaning and cutting off dried tops about 1" above bulbs. Keep the smallest bulbs for spring planting.First Seed starting Date46-92 days before last frost dateCompanionsCompanionslettuce, pepper, spinach, strawberry, tomatoIncompatiblesAll beans, asparagus, peas, sage

  Onions are easy to grow, have a fairly short growing period and take up little space in the garden. If you don’t have a vegetable garden, plant a few onions in your flower garden or in a pot or box and set them on your patio or in a sunny window. For an easy perennial onion patch, grow potato onions. Almost a lost variety, with flavor stronger then shallots, they can substitute for regular onions. Buy them once, plant in fall or spring, and enjoy harvests for decades.

  Where to Grow Onions

  
  

  Onions are a cool-season crop, hardy to frost and light freezes, although certain varieties are exceptions. They can be grown practically everywhere, and prefer a cool- season start. Onions are as hardy as they come. Frosts, freezing temperatures and snow will not kill them. They should have steadily moist soil and even growing weather to mature at a steady pace. Otherwise they bolt to seed or do not form good bulbs. High temperatures and low humidity are advantageous during bulbing and curing.

  Recommended Varieties of Onions

  Common Slicing Varieties: White, Yellow or Spanish Onion (most commonly used)
  - Vidalia Onions - good sweet onion to cook with, look for Walla-Walla, Vidalia onions are trademarked and only grown in the state of Georgia.
  - Red Onion – known for it’s sweet taste, often eaten raw on salads, looks purple
  - Scallions or Green Onions - grown for it’s long stem, has little or no bulb
  - Pearl Onions - for pickling
  - Shallots - mild tasting, small bulb, more expensive than other onion varieties
  - Leeks - mild tasting stalk
  - Chives - onion flavored herb, usually used on salads or as a garnish
  
  Note: Home grown onions have a much stronger flavor than store bought onions.
  
  Multiplier onions, such as shallots and perennial potato onions reproduce vegetatively and are usually started by sets. Similarly, bunching onions, such as scallions, Welsh and Japanese, don't form full bulbs and are usually started by sets. Sets should be started with small bulbs no larger than 3/8 to 7/8 inches. Sweet onions are best started from seed, as is the common or regular onion.
  
  What’s the difference between Long and Short Day Bulbs?
  Most onion varieties begin to form a bulb when the temperature and hours of daylight reach certain levels.
  
  Long Day Bulbs, for northern latitudes, begin to bulb when there is 14-16 hours of daylight.
  
  Short Day Bulbs, for southern latitudes, begin to bulb when there is 12-14 hours of daylight.

  Soil for Onion Growing

  A fertile, mellow soil, well enriched with compost and rotted manures. The ground should be free of pebbles and stones and moisture retentive. Since onions are shallow rooted and need constant moisture to develop well, a well-balanced fertilizer should be worked in before planting. Onion growth and yield can be greatly enhanced by banding a fertilizer rich in phosphorous (10-20-10) 2-3" below transplants at planting time. Make a trench in the center of the bed 4" deep and distribute 1/2 cup of fertilizer per 10' of row. Cover the fertilizer with 2" of soil and plant onions 6" from the trench on either side, don't plant onions in the trench. Plant onions in a sunny location with good drainage and always keep the soil moist.

  Planting Onions

  Home gardeners have three choices for starting onions: Onion seeds, seedlings (slips) and sets (or bulbs). Seeds take the longest time and should be started indoors, but are the cheapest. Slips give you a head start on growing and are hardy. Onions started from seeds generally grow larger and store longer, while sets are easier and faster to grow, but are more subject to bolting and rot.

  When -

  Onions are relatively hardy, so planting can begin as soon as the soil is dried out and workable in spring. In milder climates( >zone 8), they can be planted in fall for spring harvest. If planted in too cool weather, onions will not form bulbs. Onions can be planted as soon as the garden can be tilled in the spring, usually late March or early April in prime growing regions. Good fertility, adequate soil moisture and cool temperatures aid development.

  How -

  Plant onions 1 inch deep and 3 to 4 inches apart in double rows, leaving 6 to 10 inches between rows. Be sure to leave enough room between rows to weed. If the onions are planted closer together, you can harvest every other plant as a green onion so that bulb development of the remaining plants is not impeded.

  How Onions Grow

  The onion is a bulb-forming plant with long, tubular, deep, rich green leaves. They vary in size from the tiny green or spring onions to the large sweet Bermuda-type onion. Colors are white, yellow, and red. Bulb onions mature in response to changing amounts of daylight. The longer the plants grow before forming bulbs, the bigger and better those bulbs will be. In North America, days become shorter after the summer solstice (June 21st). Summer days are longer in the North than in the South, which is the determining factor in choosing the best plants for your area. Be sure to chose short day, intermediate day, or long day based on your latitude for the best onions. Buying from a local reputable dealer, or a legitimate supplier should offer some guidance to help you choose.

  Cultivating Onions

  Onions have shallow roots and compete poorly with weeds and grasses. Timely shallow hoeing and cultivation are important, especially when the onions are small. Onions need fertile moist ground. Side-dress with fertilizer rich in nitrogen every 2 to 3 weeks and water well in any dry spells. It is important to stop fertilizing within 3 weeks of harvest when the necks begin to feel soft.

  Storage RequirementsOnions sprout in the presence of ethylene gas, so never store with apples, apricots, avocados, bananas, figs, kiwis, melons, peaches, pears, plums, and tomatoes. Eat the largest ones first. They are the most likely to sprout.FreshTemperatureHumidityStorage Life36-40 F65-70 %1-8 months (dry)PreservedMethodTasteShelf LifeCannedgood12+ monthsFrozenfair3 monthsDriedgood12 months

  Harvesting Onions

  Onions are ready to harvest approximatly 150 days after planting seeds, and approximately 100 days after transplanting sets. Green or spring onions are pulled as needed when the stems are about 1/4 inch thick.
  Pull green onions anytime after the tops are 6 inches tall. Green onions become stronger in flavor with age and increasing size. They may be used for cooking when they are too strong to eat raw. Sweet onions generally store poorly, whereas pungent varieties store well because of a high content of aromatics, which act as preservatives.
  
  Remove any plants that have formed flower stalks and use immediately. They do not produce good bulbs for dry storage.
  
  For dry onions, those that will be dug and stored, the tops will start to yellow off and fall as the bulbs are maturing probably late July or early August, as can be seen in the nearby image. If the entire row does not ripen uniformly, when the majority of onions are ripe, knock down the foliage of the others with the back of a rake. Dig the onions carefully and allow them to dry in the open sun for a few days. Rinse off the dirt and allow the onions to dry with the tops still attached in the open air for about 2-3 weeks. Then, cut the tops and roots off of the onion, and allow the cuts to air dry for two or three days. This will help to seal the onion and avoid premature spoiling. Store in a porous or net bag in a cool, dry place.
  
  To keep mature onions for a longer period of time, lay them in a single layer on newspaper in a warm, well ventilated place to cure for 2-3 weeks. Leave undisturbed until the outer skin becomes papery and crispy dry. Select unbruised onions, rub off the stringy roots and braid the tops. Braid and hang them in bunches or place in mesh bags and hang away from moisture. If onions are stored in a cool dry place (50 to 60 degrees), they will keep for 6-8 months.

  To store scallions or green onions, place them in a jar or vase and put some water in the bottom. You can continue to cut the tips as they grow, and they won't spoil for quite some time.

  Onion Pests

  - Thrips - Keep areas near onions mowed to reduce the weedy habitat that onion thrips prefer.
  - Onion maggot - Be alert for flies in spring. The adult flies are attracted to rotting onion tissue, so rotate onions with other crops, and compost all refuse after harvesting.

  Onion Diseases

  The onion family is resistant to most disease, although wet and humid weather can increase the likelihood of disease. Most members of the onion family are resistant to insect problems; however, above 40 degrees north latitude, root maggots may attack the roots of onion plants. Insecticidal soap sprays are very effective should you have a problem. Onions and garlic are ingredients in a number of organic insect sprays. Buy quality sets and plants to be sure of clean stock.

  Why do onions make you cry?

  When you cut into an onion, the cell walls are damaged releasing a sulfur compound called propanethial-S-oxide which floats into the air. This compound is converted into sulfuric acid when it comes in contact with water which is why it stings your eyes. Chilling inactivates the propanethial-S-oxide so it does not float into the air. Thus, no tears.
  To keep eyes dry when chopping onions, try chilling peeled onions in the refrigerator before chopping. To get the onion smell off of your hands, rub with lemon juice or vinegar. To freshen onion breath, chew a little parsley or a coffee bean.

  Other bulb plants for the garden similar to onions:

  Garlic:

  Garlic is simple enough to grow. Simply pull apart a garlic bulb, and plant the individual cloves about 2 inches deep and about 2 inches apart. Mature garlic bulbs should be ready in 3 months.
  
  Shallots:
  Shallots are highly prized by French chefs and can be difficult to find year round in your local market. They tend to be expensive, and are as simple to grow as garlic. The flavor reflects the quality of the soil, however, and since bitter taste seems to follow planting in clay soil, use typical good onion soil for shallots. The tops will start to brown off and yellow when the bulbs are mature, in about 90-110 days.
  
  Leeks:
  Unless noted otherwise below, leeks have the same needs as onions. Varieties are Broad London (Large American Flag); Swiss Special; Conqueror. Seed is usually sown indoors about 2 months before planting but can be seeded directly outdoors. Germination is in 10 days. Seedlings are set in a 6 inch trench, in rows 2 feet apart, with 6 inches between sets. The object of the trench is to blanch the leeks white as they grow; the row is gradually filled in as the leeks develop or the soil is merely hilled around the plants as they near maturity; but be careful not to brush soil into the leaf stalks. Leeks should be pulled when fully mature, about an inch in diameter, in 120-130 days. In mild climates they can be left in the ground over winter and dug as needed. But in colder climates, they should be harvested before frost, although some gardeners have been successful in mulching leeks heavily and harvesting all winter.